After a long break I am back with a new post! The last couple of weeks were a roller coaster. Had a great weekend trip in Paris where I visited the Yves Saint Laurent museum. The sun was shining for 3 days non stop (a rare incident for Paris during February) I had an amazing time, long walks along the river Seine, trying out new restaurants etc. I really didn't wanna leave. Maybe, I was anticipating the bad weather in Brussels. The moment I got back home, I got sick. Covid hit pretty hard after having the 3rd booster of vaccine. I had to rest and get back in shape, so I allowed myself to have a break from my projects and my blog. I am so glad that I am back and motivated again :)
This week I want to share with you my next Make Nine Challenge project, the white puffer jacket. We all know that mid season period, the weather is sunny but cold at the same time. I was missing a light weight jacket in my wardrobe that was really lightweight but warm at the same time. I decided on this design because I needed a jacket which can adapt to different styles of outfits easily. It has a refined silhouette but also structural elements in the bodice. Matte white fabric gives a neutral and casual feeling and fake fur trims gives an elevated look. By implementing these contrasting elements, I could achieve a versatile jacket which I can style for different occasions: casual, chic or elegant.
Keep reading for more details :)
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Inspiration:
Once I decided on the silhouette, I started my research to find some inspiration for the structural elements I wanted to add to the design. Once again I found inspiration in Alexander McQueen. Below designs are his original work from Fall 2002, Fall 2003 and Fall 2004 from left to right. I like the nip waisted warrior like structure of his designs, almost like a modern armor. I wanted to create the same strong effect, I achieved that by separating the bodice pattern into symmetrical modules and incorporating some of the design elements from the below pieces.
Pattern Making:
The pattern of the jacket is derived from the basic coat foundation with side panels. To achieve a snatched silhouette I take out from the waist and added more volume to the hips.
Once the base pattern was finished, I added the style lines to create the modules. After that I added the straight seam style lines and I paid extra attention to create a perfect symmetry between the right and the left parts of each panel to match the seams perfectly.
After that I cut the fabric and continue the sewing process, which was extremely long I have to say.
Sewing:
To create the straight style lines I used masing tape and fixed measurements for a precise and harmonious outcome. I followed the edge of the masking tape on the sewing machine with straight stitch. Once done, I removed the masking tape quite easily.
Once all modules were finished, I connected the modules to created the original panels of the jacket. I connected the panels together with straight stitch on the machine. In order to achieve a clean look on the inside, I closed all the inner seams with bias satin binding.
Pro tip: Patterns with side panels are perfect for hiding the pockets. See below how I manage to hide the invisible zipper :)
The next step was to make the neck piece, for that I added some extra padding for a comfy and cushiony effect. I used gold colored metal zipper and a clip to create an elevated look. The length of the jacket is does not fit to the standard zipper lengths, therefore I used a meter zipper and I added customized slider and stopper at the end of the zipper. Finally, I added some crinoline in the inner part of the skirt and added white fake fur trim overall on the hemline and wrists.
I used the leftover fur to make a fun belt bag for my phone that I can attach or detach as I please.
Final Look:
I hope you enjoy this project!
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Cheers,
Idil